Lavabe's Madagascar 2009 Lemur Thread

[devildeac]

Great idea, Lavabe. Padding my post counts by proxy. Sheer genius. :roll: :oops:

Now, back to your regularly scheduled Madagascar reports. :oops:

[Lavabe]

The ultimate purpose of surveying fo primates is to count up populations. From the counts and locations of where you find them, you can then make all sorts of plans about research and conservation. When I started thinking about coming here in 2009, I thought of my last surveys in the Cap d'Ambre. In these I found populations of both crowned lemurs and Sanford's lemurs in this dry, windy region. And the best part is that I saw strong evidence of fady, traditions, that local people use to protect forests. Truly these are some of the best conservationists. No recognition, just plenty of good deeds.

Unfortunately, I only went so far in 2004. I still didn't know where the northern limits for both species really were. Some primate survey folks last went up there in 1971 or so, and before that, in 1959. A number of other folks have visited. Yet I was still perplexed by all the rumors of beachside lemurs, both crowned and Sanford's. And as we all know, after doing three years of a study in a rain forest, it's time for me to do the beach.

Coconuts, surf, and lemurs.

So the goal this year was to see where we had the rarer of the two species, the Sanford's lemurs. To do so meant going up to the northern tip of the island by car, then walk our way south, hopefully stopping at each forest, all in a week.

My assistant, Philippe, my student, Floris, and I met our local guide, Vazaha, at the northern town of Zengitra. After a windy, rainy night, we toured the northernmost forest where the previous night we had heard at least four groups of crowned lemurs. In the span of four hours, we surveyed the forest, counting lemurs, assessing plant life, etc..., even getting to the nearby lighthouse at the northern point of Madagascar. We returned to Zengitra, broke down camp, had lunch (rice and ... rice), said good bye, and set sail for a four kilometer hike to another forest just south of us.

Then it happened. Rain. Hiking on a trail, exposed, carrying a camera, and ...

Rain. Rain stinks. It has a way of making you feel permadamp. It started 1km into the route. It continued until we got to the target town.

The good news about rain is that it makes lemurs call out, so as we were walking, I was counting groups of lemurs, just by their long calls. And it was still just crowneds. The forest was exactly the same as the one we had seen by Zengitra. As we gathered under a roof in the town, my assistant and I stared at each other, wondering what to do. This was going to be the same kind of forest. After talking with local folks, we knew that there were no Sanford's lemurs. Crowneds, yes. Sanford's, NO.

The map revealed that another 6 km jaunt south would get us to another village. Once there, we could camp, and be in position to listen to the dusk calls of both lemurs, if they were there. We would abandon this town. It was a gamble, but all the cards were saying MOVE.

And it was damp.

We started hoofing it, climbing about four or more hills on the path. The good news was that the on and off rain just forced the lemur calls, so I was getting good data as we walked. We also noticed forests that did not appear on the map.

We arrived in town with 15 minutes to spare, set up camp, and decided to meet up with the local president. That's when things became SO Malagasy.

While waiting for the president in town, we were talking with this young-looking man. As my assistant started discussing things with him, I asked where the president was.

STUPID move. That was the president.

I begged forgiveness on this one, and we continued to discuss things. The man said that there were no Sanford's lemurs along the east side of Cap d'Ambre, and that anyone who tells you this is just fooling you. Only crowneds were on the east side. The Sanford's were along the west side. They started at Mt. d'Ambre, were inhabiting forests along the chain of mountains that extended to the northern forest where, as it turned out, I saw them in 2004.

My assistant was curious why this man knew exactly what I had proposed earlier in 2004. He started to introduce my studies, when all of a sudden, the man said.
"Hold on. In 2004, I was the mayor of a town in the west when this nice researcher came by with a husky guide. We sat down and talked. The researcher was two meters tall."

As soon as I heard two meters, I stood up, and the two of us looked at each other and realized we had met a long time ago. I then said that he was extremely kind, offering us a Coca-Cola back in 2004, talking with us. We just looked dumbfounded at each other. We left on such good terms back then, as what I found nearby confirmed that most of the folks were practicing conservation.

Small world. He was now mayor of the town I had just walked into. Amazing.

We had dinner, talked more, and listened to a little soccer. Having met him, we discussed the forests on the east side, compared with the west, and he confirmed all that we had been seeing ... and not seeing.

The great thing about surveying in Madagascar is meeting the people. Friendships develop and are longlasting. I still shake my head over this mayor, and the same smile he had. The same smile, and the same personality, found in different towns some 20 km apart. If we hadn't made that split decision, we wouldn't have even stopped at this town. We would have skipped it en route to another forest.

Five years is a long time... except for friendships. And friendships develop all the time. In Madagascar, you can never have enough friends; and there are so many friends all over the place.

[DevilAlumna]

Lavabe, when you're ready to leave your current career, you have a future in writing and storytelling. Thanks for sharing your adventures with us!!

[cl15876]

* Delete message
* Quote message

Re: Post 6000.1

Sent: July 6th, 2009, 1:32 pm
From: Lavabe
To: CameronBornAndBred devildeac
... I've looked up and down our built in security controls and I see nothing. ....

My goodness, Mr. flashlight security man here and I'd love to partake in this .... but, not sure who controls what? Is that Bot problem possibly related to the North Korean Bot outbreak that hit the news today!!!!!????? They even like Duke!!!!!

[Lavabe]

Lavabe, when you're ready to leave your current career, you have a future in writing and storytelling. Thanks for sharing your adventures with us!!

In all honesty DA, you made a comment over yonder that sort of got me the idea of creating this thread. It's really made me focus a lot, and I have to say after this last survey, the next few stories are going to be OMG material. Let's just say that if you think conservation is hokie and that primates aren't endangered, I am now living with some major issues. If I did not come this year, my former site would probably have been gone by the end of the year. As it is, I don't know if things will work out, but I may have a lot more politicing to do than I had ever planned.

Health status: I am badly dehydrated, cut, bitten, muscle bruised, blisters on my blisters, CRAVING something good to eat, and running on about a year of adrenaline. Family & friend prayers, thoughts, and VIBES were greatly appreciated. I came into this BADLY out of shape, and I felt it. Must do more cardiovascular workouts in advance of such trips. Must also somehow figure out how to stop the aging process.

If there are any MD's out there, please PM me. No emergency, but I AM just wondering something.

Wilson: I mean this when I say this... Coca-Cola is a godsend. COCA-COLA really adds life.

Weight loss update: the incredible shrinking anthropologist is now at 219 pounds. Just before I left on this survey, I was at 231 (I had gained two pounds from my previous measure). Now that there's a new Djibouti Salon de The' in town (and I know the owner), here's hoping that I gain a few pounds back.

I have about 150 photos to sort through. Who knows, maybe more? Let me sit and digest the last 6 days and try to comprehend everything.
Cheers,
Lavabe

[OZZIE4DUKE]

Lavabe,

Vibes to you and the lemurs }}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}

You must be looking for an MD other than DD? He, I would think, you could contact directly.

[Lavabe]

A half-inch leech got me today, on the wrist. I got him off me. Then I smushed it.

When will leeches ever learn?

[TillyGalore]

Lavabe,

Vibes to you and the lemurs }}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}

You must be looking for an MD other than DD? He, I would think, you could contact directly.

What Ozzie said. Sending vibes to you and the lemurs.

[wilson]

What Ozzie said. Sending vibes to you and the lemurs.

Vibes from Charleston too. And also a cheeseburger.

[devildeac]

Lavabe, when you're ready to leave your current career, you have a future in writing and storytelling. Thanks for sharing your adventures with us!!

In all honesty DA, you made a comment over yonder that sort of got me the idea of creating this thread. It's really made me focus a lot, and I have to say after this last survey, the next few stories are going to be OMG material. Let's just say that if you think conservation is hokie and that primates aren't endangered, I am now living with some major issues. If I did not come this year, my former site would probably have been gone by the end of the year. As it is, I don't know if things will work out, but I may have a lot more politicing to do than I had ever planned.

Health status: I am badly dehydrated, cut, bitten, muscle bruised, blisters on my blisters, CRAVING something good to eat, and running on about a year of adrenaline. Family & friend prayers, thoughts, and VIBES were greatly appreciated. I came into this BADLY out of shape, and I felt it. Must do more cardiovascular workouts in advance of such trips. Must also somehow figure out how to stop the aging process.

If there are any MD's out there, please PM me. No emergency, but I AM just wondering something.

Wilson: I mean this when I say this... Coca-Cola is a godsend. COCA-COLA really adds life.

Weight loss update: the incredible shrinking anthropologist is now at 219 pounds. Just before I left on this survey, I was at 231 (I had gained two pounds from my previous measure). Now that there's a new Djibouti Salon de The' in town (and I know the owner), here's hoping that I gain a few pounds back.

I have about 150 photos to sort through. Who knows, maybe more? Let me sit and digest the last 6 days and try to comprehend everything.
Cheers,
Lavabe

You're not going to like the only way I know to stop the aging process...

You're not going to like it at all...

Not sure what to tell you to eat and drink being several thousand miles away. What do the local residents eat/drink to maintain decent health? yogurt? chicken? pork creatures? lots of beans and rice? fruits and veggies? What is safe to drink besides Coke? Tea? Any sweeteners?

I'll remember this story when you return to the US and gain 40-50 pounds again... :roll:

Prayers. On the way.

[devildeac]

Lavabe,

Vibes to you and the lemurs }}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}

You must be looking for an MD other than DD? He, I would think, you could contact directly.

No new messages here. I'll check over yonder, too.

He has my cell#... :roll: :oops:

[Sue71]

Vibes to you, bro!

[Lavabe]

You're not going to like the only way I know to stop the aging process...

You're not going to like it at all...

Not sure what to tell you to eat and drink being several thousand miles away. What do the local residents eat/drink to maintain decent health? yogurt? chicken? pork creatures? lots of beans and rice? fruits and veggies? What is safe to drink besides Coke? Tea? Any sweeteners?

I'll remember this story when you return to the US and gain 40-50 pounds again... :roll:

Prayers. On the way.

Coke has remarkable properties for rehydrating individuals. The sugar/safe water ration is cited by WhereThereIsNoDoctor as almost ideal for rehydration. Take with a little salt, and you have a great mixture.

Sweeteners=sugar/sugar cane.
Tea: I have been consuming quantities of lemongrass tea, a local green tea from a plant called rambafotsy (ILJ: I just had some today from the tree in front of where the camp is), and like 4 other herbal teas.
Drink: Lots of people drink local water. They get a lot of liquid from rice. They also consume rice water, a local rum called tokoa gasy.

More detaills in the AM.
Cheers,
Lavabe

[devildeac]

You're not going to like the only way I know to stop the aging process...

You're not going to like it at all...

Not sure what to tell you to eat and drink being several thousand miles away. What do the local residents eat/drink to maintain decent health? yogurt? chicken? pork creatures? lots of beans and rice? fruits and veggies? What is safe to drink besides Coke? Tea? Any sweeteners?

I'll remember this story when you return to the US and gain 40-50 pounds again... :roll:

Prayers. On the way.

Coke has remarkable properties for rehydrating individuals. The sugar/safe water ration is cited by WhereThereIsNoDoctor as almost ideal for rehydration. Take with a little salt, and you have a great mixture.

Sweeteners=sugar/sugar cane.
Tea: I have been consuming quantities of lemongrass tea, a local green tea from a plant called rambafotsy (ILJ: I just had some today from the tree in front of where the camp is), and like 4 other herbal teas.
Drink: Lots of people drink local water. They get a lot of liquid from rice. They also consume rice water, a local rum called tokoa gasy.

More detaills in the AM.
Cheers,
Lavabe

There's your solution then (pun intended):

lots of rum AND Coke AND rice...

Now, about that protein question...

[ILoveJimmy]

Tea: I have been consuming quantities of lemongrass tea, a local green tea from a plant called rambafotsy (ILJ: I just had some today from the tree in front of where the camp is), and like 4 other herbal teas.

I remember the tree well. However, I recall that you enjoyed the tea from it more than I did...

Was there anything left from the camp at all - the tent poles or large tree trunks where we sat?

[Lavabe]

Tea: I have been consuming quantities of lemongrass tea, a local green tea from a plant called rambafotsy (ILJ: I just had some today from the tree in front of where the camp is), and like 4 other herbal teas.

I remember the tree well. However, I recall that you enjoyed the tea from it more than I did...

I am a big fan of herbal teas, and this is definitely a tisane (it's not in the same genus as the tea that gives us the stuff that you sweeten and chill in the south). It does, however, have a little caffeine, so it's more like a green tea in that respect. More importantly, it has medical properties that EVERYONE recognizes (stomach appetite issues, nausea, bowel trouble). I used it as my rehydration drink yesterday on the path to Joffreville.

Was there anything left from the camp at all - the tent poles or large tree trunks where we sat?

I took a photo of how it looked before we cleaned the camp area. The site had lots of cyclone damage in which big trees came crashing down along major paths, and some big branches came down at the camp, including the path to the waterfall where we showered. No tent poles were left, but given the rate of decay I saw in 2004, I am not surprised. In 2004, I left two red tapes where our tent was. I found the tapes there.

I think the cyclone knocked down/snapped the Celtis tree that used to house our favorite pair of nocturnal primates, a couple of fork-crowned lemurs (Phaner furcifer, the species that looks like bjornolf's sugar gliders), Gong and Clash. EVERY night at sunset, they'd come out about 10 meters up the tree, and give their loud calls. I mean LOUD calls (duets), hence their names. Gong and Clash did their song in 2004. Sadly, nothing there yesterday night, but we didn't hear any other Phaner give the call. We did hear three Phaner through the night. Unfortunately, we had the LOUD varatraza (seasonal wind) all through the night, and gust were up around 50-60mph. Nothing like having a freight train to sleep by.

The ramy tree which fell that one night still can be seen, but it's covered in a lot of undergrowth. Tree falls are a natural process, and create a light gap that permits more life to take hold. Cyclones are part of that process. In 2005, a category 4/5 cyclone hit Mt. d'Ambre, and clearly caused problems at the site, and along the main path to the village of Beanamalao.

More later,
Lavabe

[TillyGalore]

Lavabe, this may be a bit of an elementary question, what happens to the animals, not just the lemurs, when a cyclone hits? Do they have shelters, I mean shelters they have built versus human made shelters, or do a lot of them end of dead due to the strong winds and heavy rains?

[Lavabe]

Lavabe, this may be a bit of an elementary question, what happens to the animals, not just the lemurs, when a cyclone hits? Do they have shelters, I mean shelters they have built versus human made shelters, or do a lot of them end of dead due to the strong winds and heavy rains?

First off, I do NOT recommend being in a rain forest during a cyclone. It's dangerous. Lots of branches come flying down. Even two or three days after a cyclone, it is still not safe, as the soil has loosened around the trees, and we find many tree falls at this time. FWIW, the smell of a tree fall is amazing, as all the fresh odors from the greenery you never see is brought to the forest floor.

Having said that, I (and if IIRC, ILJ as well) lived through a cyclone in the rain forest. Lemurs ride out the cyclones huddled on strong branches of trees. In a Category 5 cyclone (like one in 1984), villagers all over the region mentioned seeing many dead lemurs when they went into the forest.

Lemurs don't make shelters. Only a few even make nests.

[Lavabe]

I can't recall the last time I heard anyone in the far north of Madagascar calling me a vazaha, the Malagasy term for foreigner. In a land where everyone can identify each other's ethnic group (and there are some 20+ groups to count), foreigners are lumped together as vazaha. If you are a vazaha from West Africa, you're still vazaha. If you're French, you're vazaha. Shoot, I camped in the Cap d'Ambre with a local Sakalava guide named VAZAHA.

In 2004, I was going up the hill in Joffreville on the way to the national park, when a woman I knew back 15 years prior saw me. She had a small 3 or 4 year old child who did the traditional thing, and pointed at me saying VAZAHA! The mother quickly admonished the kid, saying "Tsy vazaha; misy Benz," meaning that I was NOT to be called vazaha, that I was to be called by my name (well... my name, plus a zed).

I did a double-take on that one, as it meant that something I did struck a chord with a lot of people whom I really care about. They returned that care in so many ways. As it turns out, they did one other thing that caught me by surprise that year. My former field site, Ampamelonabe (place of a tall tree species), was renamed by everyone as Camp Ben. I was completely taken back by this simple honor. First of all, I have never asked anything like that of the people. Secondly, those of us who study primates invest so much of our lives in the study of these animals that reward doesn't come in this fashion.

Then why did they do it? I think there are several reasons. First, it was a way to keep my memory with them. Frankly, there are other such Camps in Ankarana and in other parks in the north of Madagascar. I had been gone a long time, so memories needed to be reminded. Secondly, my presence at the site was a key conservation move by one of the villagers in the west of Mt. d'Ambre, Jaomaro. He recognized that my presence would mean a tacit agreement among all not to touch the forest. This is where the tall foreigner worked and lived. This is where he is; don't disturb it. So when he brought me there the first time, he had a plan. Frankly, this is not unique to Madagascar, as the presence of researchers in other parts of the world often has the same effect. In most cases, we act as a barrier, as a means of protecting the forest edge.

Even on this trip in 2009, the effect of my presence in 2004 is unmistakable. In 2004 I went as far west as the town of Befotaka, on the Mozambique Channel, I saw healthy lemur populations. This fishing village has a small patch of forest. In the 1980's a timber concession was given to a logging firm that literally leveled most of the surrounding forest. It is a still a moonscape. But the tiny forest in Befotaka has plenty of crowned lemurs, protected by local fady (taboos). The fady are among all the local Antankarana people; unfortunately, there was one Tsimaheiti who did not follow those traditions, and set up lemur traps to kill crowned lemurs on the edge of his farm. My guide and I went to the traps, saw them, and I took a photo or two, all in the presence of a few kids who were with us seemingly the whole time. These were the first traps I had ever seen in all my time in this region. We left Befotaka disappointed in the traps, but thrilled to see both crowned lemurs and Sanford's lemurs holding on, despite the ecological damage to the area.

This year I planned to revisit Befotaka, but I severely dehydrated a scant one hour away, in the middle of a terribly degraded area. After I stabilized, the crew helped me get back and set up camp in a nearby village. While I rested there, my main assistant and porter decided to go to Befotaka, get some provisions (including everyone's favorite rehydration drink, Coca-Cola), and return to camp. So I was feeling pretty down. Then again, the lemur calls were present, and I started seeing three or four groups with little trouble.

As dusk fell, my assistant and porter returned with incredible news. Turns out that the next day or so after we left in 2004, the local Tsimaheiti who was trapping lemurs abandoned his farm, and left the region. He knew he was doing something illegal, and the mere presence of a foreigner coming into the region made him decide to get out, but quickly. My guide reported that all the villagers in Befotaka sent me their best wishes and thanks for coming by. As it is now, my guide saw both crowned lemurs and Sanford's lemurs IN TOWN, with no fear of humans. And all the local people were happy for their return.

I have to admit that the simple thanks means a lot from these people. I've come to expect a level of hospitality and warmth that I simply don't find in many places. But what's so endearing isn't the honor of being named something, or having something be named after you. It's the fact that these people choose to keep a memory alive amidst a lifestyle that is so hard. Life isn't easy here. When people tell stories, their eyes light up, and the inflection in their language goes wild. It adds emphasis. It makes life seem so less difficult. Memories are passed on through simple storytelling. And the emotions that are never shown in day-to-day life come out. And the smiles never end.

I tell people that I am not Malagasy, but that Madagascar rests in my heart. The people here know what I mean.

I'd like to think that some of those kids who followed us that day will tell the stories of the lemurs and the tall guy some time in the future. As for me right now, I am still recuperating with the warmth and affection the people show me. When I stopped at Beanamalao the other day, the people sought me, asking what I could do to help stop the deforestation in the area. I simply cannot do it myself, and they know it. Yet the hope, passion, and smiles the people have, and their memories of my stay in the forest, are something that they cling to.

I'll be honest. I don't like the name, Camp Ben. It's a Malagasy forest, and should remain named as such. Yet the honor should not be dismissed either, nor should the need for conservation. I have told everyone that to honor both wishes we can make a compromise. From now on, it will be named "Ampamelonaben." One letter can make a difference.

So can a memory.

[OZZIE4DUKE]

I'll be honest. I don't like the name, Camp Ben. It's a Malagasy forest, and should remain named as such. Yet the honor should not be dismissed either, nor should the need for conservation. I have told everyone that to honor both wishes we can make a compromise. From now on, it will be named "Ampamelonaben." One letter can make a difference.

So can a memory.

Great story, Ben(z)!

Ampamelonaben. Sort of like Coach K Court in Cameron Indoor Stadium!